Accomodation:

We were staying with friends and family so we can't help you here.

Transportion:

Get an Akbil. Buy it from kiosks at transport hubs marked Akbil Satis Noktasi. You pay a refundable deposit (6 YTL) and load however much you want to put on it. Then whenever you use the bus, train, metro, ferry or tram, you pay with your Akbil which not only gives you a discount but saves you the effort of having to stand in lines and digging up change for tokens or tickets. When your Akbil runs low, just add more money at one of the Akbil kiosks (or at one of the machines). When you are about to leave Istanbul, you can return the Akbil and get your deposit back.

Istanbul has a very good (although crowded) public transportation system. There is a metro that runs from 4.Levent to Taksim as well as a smaller one that goes from Taksim to Kabatas (a ferry terminal). Taksim is connected to Tunel by a historic street car which runs along Istiklal (usually faster to walk) and Tunel is connected to Karakoy by the historic Tunel metro. A tram runs from Kabatas to Zeytinburnu making stops in Eminönü (ferry port), Sultanahmet, Aksaray and many other locations. Another metro line goes from Aksaray to the airport. There is a commuter train that leaves the train station and goes along the coast. Ferries go to Uskudar and Kadikoy from Kabatas, Besiktas, Karakoy and Eminonu. There are also some ferries that run up the Bosphorus. The bus routes are too numerous to name but some info can be found at the Istanbul bus system website. The Havas buses are probably the easiest way to get from the airport to Taksim. To get from the airport to Sultanahmet, you can take the metro to Aksaray then walk to the tram which goes to Sultanahmet (Eminönü, Kabatas direction).

Food:

I love Turkish food. It also seems like it is readily available all the time. Cheap eats include doner sandwiches, lahmajun (1.5 YTL), pide (Turkish pizza) (5 YTL), chickpeas and rice, and hot table foods such as moussaka or beans. Baked snacks include pogaças (potato, cheese, or olive stuffed pastries .50-.60) which some places only have for breakfast though I was delighted to find a seller on Istiklal who brought out his wares around midnight; simits (kind of a cross between a sesame bagel and a pretzel .60); and börek (layers of pastry and cheese). Cold or hot mezes are little appetizer dishes which are a Turkish specialty, traditionally accompanied by raki, an anis flavoured liquor. My favorites are eggplant in olive oil, eggplant salad and beans in a tomato sauce. They seem to range from 5 YTL up at places like Nevizade Sokak and Kumkapi. Kebabs are also a Turkish specialty.

Medi Sark Sofrasi: Kuçuk Parmak Kapi Sok. #20, at the end of the street. A friend introduced us to a wonderful place a little ways off Istiklal for kebabs. For 7.5 YTL you get a big piece of fresh baked flat bread, a spicy salsa like salad as well as a tomato, cucumber salad, a chicken kebab and tomato bulger. Delicious!

Simit Saray: I used to be against Simit Saray because I thought it was taking the livelyhood away from the traditional street simit seller. Well the simit sellers are still around so maybe it isn't so bad after all. And to be quite honest, the simits I've bought here seem a lot fresher than the ones sold by the street seller. The other benefit is if you need a place to meet people, use the bathroom, or just rest with a snack, it (as well as all the other similar establishments) is an easy, cheap choice.

Self-Catering: Big supermarket chains include Macros and Migros. Less swanky ones, like BIM, tend to have cheaper prices.

Money:

Banks with ATMs are all over the place. There are also many kiosks labeled "Paramatik" which contain ATMs. There are Dovis money exchange places on Istiklal, Sultanahmet and Beyazit. Check your money to make sure it isn't torn or damaged, especially the large bills.

Sites and Entertainment:

Since there are tons of websites that tell you spectacular sites to see in Istanbul, I'll just focus on a few of my favorites which probably aren't the most popular.

The Walls: Walking the walls reminds me why I love Istanbul. There is a fascinating blend of ordinary life milling and flowing around something extremely old and historic. A good place to start is Ayvansaray on the Golden Horn. Unfortunately they are in the midst of restoring the area including Tekfur Saray, which means it will probably become more of a tourist destination in the future.

Istiklal: I've developed a love/hate relationship with Istiklal. It is crowded, and my old haunts have become swanky and expensive. However, I still am irresistably drawn there. Perhaps it is the perpetual hope that the backstreets still hold secret surprises like secret cafes or quirky places. The architecture is pretty cool as well.

Sultanahmet: You will have to go here because of all the famous sites: Haghia Sofia, the Blue Mosque, etc. etc. I just wanted to mention a very cool time to see the Yerebaten Cistern is when there is a Belediye concert (see schedule). The admission is free (though they close off most of the cistern so you can't see the Medussa head). It can be a bit damp so bring a sweater.

Ferry Rides: A cheap form of entertainment is taking a ferry between the Asian and European side. At sunset you get to see beautiful views of Sultanahmet, at night you can see the lights, during the heat of the day you can relax and feel the cool breeze of the Bosphorus. You can also take a public ferry up the Bosphorus for a cheap Bosphorus cruise.

Büyük Belediye Concerts: From September through May, there are a series of cultural events put on at various locations including lectures, dance performances and concerts. They are free! You can pick up a program at the Buyuk Belediyesi Book store on Istiklal or visit their website.